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December 24, 2019 at 9:52 pm #1165
This is gonna be a pain, I can feel it in my joints already. Hello, all! I am the proud new owner (as of around a month ago) of a 3D printer- The Beast (V1)! Obtained for a mere 450 bucks online, he claims it had never been used, just assembled. I can tell, as it’s clearly not assembled completely, and has some damages, from shipping, I imagine. So, without further ado, I ask for some help, suggestions, guidance, a prayer, anything someone out there can do for me. I’ll throw some pictures up in the meantime. Now, this is my first 3D printer (quite a leap to the unknown, I’m sure I’ll find), so some slack would be appreciated as I delve into it. Hopefully, I will able to use it to print 4 perfect Benchy’s at once by the spring, so I can then move on to some more exciting things than little boats.
I’ll try to make it easy, and make one post in this thread per problem. Sounds like the cleanest way to do it.December 24, 2019 at 10:35 pm #1267
I have a feeling you’ll probably benefit from a bit of a online chat session. The V1 unit came in a few flavours. First we need to figure out exactly what you’ve got. Can you post some pictures of your machine? Once we’ve got that sorted, I’ll be able to help you get it fully functioning and provide some advice for upgrading certain parts.December 25, 2019 at 5:24 pm #1268 Apologies for not getting back to you yesterday, but I’m currently fighting my phone to get the pictures from it. It’s alright, it’s Christmas here, hope yours was well, and I’ll get back to you on these issues later in the week. It’ll be good for everyone if you could tell us the differences in “flavours” of these hotrod V1 Beasts.December 25, 2019 at 11:51 pm #1269 The V1.0 had 3D printed hotend mounts and Merlin hotends (with pointy nozzles).
V1.1 we changed to E3D v6 hotends and printed hotend mounts with optional heated bed
The v1.2 had acrylic laser cut hotend mounts and heated bed as standard. Also the bed mounts were made from laser cut acrylic. Some units also had an optical sensor which could be mounted for bed mapping.
After the unit was deprecated we also released an update to the Z system which tied all the z motors together with a belt.
IMO te tying together of the z system is unnecessary. We preferred to manually adjust the z towers independently (by rotating each tower by hand during the first layer of printing) rather than have the z towers locked together. This really depended on how you used the printer, many were not used to this method of ensuring good adhesion as it was not common for 3D printers to be adjusted in this manner.
Then we moved to the V2 generation.
Pictures will help us figure out the state of your printer and provide recommendations as to what is required. Merry Christmas BTW!December 29, 2019 at 7:28 pm #1270
Alright- time to ring in the new year with heartaches by the numbers, and troubles by the storm.
My first broken piece, a bed mount. At least, that’s sure as heck what I hope it’s called. I’ll leave that to interpretation, but what on earth do I do? I doubt you folks can hook me up with a replacement.
Another part is suspicious on this, the third mount seems to be on the lowest, and moves freely. I will now submit a picture of such.
I’ll go ahead and throw some pictures up so you may be able to tell what I’ve here. Don’t know if they all came with regular glass print beds, but here’s what I’ve got.
Maybe the… extruders will help. At least, I’m pretty sure these are extruders.
Scratch that, looks like I can’t throw up more than 3 pictures on a post. I’ll start another post with the extruders, along with some other janky thing that are occurring within the wiring.December 29, 2019 at 8:34 pm #1271
Definitely start a new thread. But yes we can replace those parts (you’ll just need to pay a minimal parts cost and shipping fee). You’re after a TR-8 brass nut and a front left bed mount all for what appears to be a v1.x unit. Figure out what else is broken and I’ll help you figure out anything missing.
FYI, you if you have access to a working 3D printer or laser cutter, we have versions of that mount which you may be able to produce locally. The TR8 nut should also be available off the shelf. I’ll need to lookup the specs as we don’t use those nuts or lead screws for our current model.
Either way, I’m sure we can get your parts.December 29, 2019 at 11:03 pm #1272
Took some more looking, found some more damage- who would’ve thought? First off is this little hot-rod brace that’s cracked. [attachment=2]169.jpg [/attachment]
Then we’ll move to… some kind of brace.
The rods that I infer are for actuating the Z axis, seem to be loose- is there supposed to be something in these?
I did find the nut was further up on the shaft, so that’s no big deal. Just have to locate the screws for it, I’ve a whole box of random stuff.
I’ve some hot-end pictures I will show you, some seem to be missing nozzles.December 29, 2019 at 11:09 pm #1273
Here’s a couple shots of the nozzles- for identification purposes, and to hear your opinions on what I should do with ’em. [attachment=2]178.jpg [/attachment] [attachment=1]165.jpg [/attachment]
And, for fun, a box of the crap I’ve got.
[attachment=0]8725.jpg [/attachment]December 29, 2019 at 11:34 pm #1274 Ok so you have a V1.0 Printer setup in what appears to be a 4×4 configuration. If you’re not using all 4 hotends in Synchronous mode, start by removing Hotends 2,3 and 4. This increases the bed size per (now single) nozzle to around 490×490. It also looks like you could do with some more reliable hotends. The old Merlins were cutting edge at the time, but these days, I think you’d be better off with one of these : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32844028127.html?spm=2114.120574126.96.36.199e903466SXiVXj
Make sure you select 1.75mm 12v All Metal if printing high volume / fast or PTFE lining if printing slower/ high res / more accurate stuff as PTFE lined hotends experience less “heat creep” than all metal hotends meaning you can get away with ultrafine layer heights.December 30, 2019 at 12:25 am #1275
Another broken bit, whatever it is, in my boxes of hotrod stuff. Also, some kind of “volcano kit”? [attachment=1]182.jpg [/attachment]
Also, this hotrod whatever, hotend? I’ll have to get to reading up more, I suppose, but I just assume this thing gets all toasty, and the nozzle goes all the way through it.
That’s all I’ve found damaged/odd from shipping, I’ll have to look into new hot ends that you’ve suggested, as soon as I can get the printer to print anything at all, and when I know what means what as far as descriptions of these hotends. Are these suggested hot-ends knockoffs of something more expensive? Because I’ve gotten knockoff products before, that’ve worked fine.
😆December 30, 2019 at 12:37 am #1276 Trianglelabs make high quality clones. Having used both e3D / Triangle Labs and a bunch of other clones, I can vouch for the quality of Trianglelab products, certainly their hotends- as good, if not better that what e3D produce. They’ve certainly progressed e3D’s original design much further than e3D themselves have over the past few years.December 30, 2019 at 1:20 am #1277 Alright, I’ll keep that in mind. I’m hoping to print PETG when I get the printer where I need it, which means heated bed, enclosure down the line. But before that, I’ll need the hook-up on what’s all broken, so I can submit it to the company that insured my shipment.
Bonus points if you can tell me what on earth that broken piece was, next to that package that said “Volcano” kit- more bonus points if you can tell me what the volcano kit was.
Heck, this might not be the right forum spot, but it would be nice if you could make some stickies for the V1-V1.2 series, just so people like me can figure out what model they may have, what was available, what hardware bits came with ’em. Doing a fine job on these forums, I snooped and saw the BS on the last forum. Bunch of animals.January 8, 2020 at 5:19 am #1278
Anywhoozle, Dan-O, if there’s any way to get a quote on some replacement parts that I’ve gone and listed, that would be dan-dy. 😆
The damned insurance company isn’t being easy on me, they want so much information, it’s gonna drive me to an early grave. Let me know how I should proceed, if you need more pictures, and an estimate on how many hours it might take (and what a shop would charge to do the work at that rate) would be cool, lord knows I can’t give them a quote without a labor estimate.
Hope your holiday vacation was all fun, and not dan-gerous.January 8, 2020 at 7:26 pm #1279
Sorry I missed your posts. Notification went to spam folder. Just thought it was quiet. In the footer of our website Cultivate3d.com you’ll find a link to a spare parts order form. Please fill it out and email to [email protected]and ill respond with any costs.
Most if not all of what I write here is applicable to the 1 and 2 systems. You have the same software same basic parts and same electronics.
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