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March 16, 2020 at 7:38 pm #1473
If you get the grid working ok. Try turning on UBL and see how it goes. Allows you to edit the grid. Last I tried they’d screwed the implementation. That was a few weeks ago. Maybe it’s fixed now.March 18, 2020 at 3:09 pm #1474 I will try UBL this evening. I reprinted the wheel I’ve been working on, overall it’s a better print than without lin advance but here are still some issues.
I’m still getting artifacts from stringing between the purge block and the wheel
I’m also getting artifacts where each layer begins and ends, which were not as pronounced before lin advance was enabled
[attachment=0]startstop.jpg [/attachment]March 18, 2020 at 3:25 pm #1475 This is a more general question about print quality, is there a way to calibrate what extrusion multiplier to apply to the extruder? I’ve calibrated the extruder by measuring the filament output, printing a single extrusion width wall cube and measuring the width of that wall…which lead to under extruding and just eyeballing it. During this print I adjusted the flow multiplier from the lcd during the beginning of the print but didn’t watch the whole print. I think I got the black pla to an acceptable extrusion multiplier but the silver is clearly under extruded…or is it?
[attachment=0]multi_1.jpg [/attachment]March 18, 2020 at 7:54 pm #1476 There sure is, get the figure to what you feel is acceptable in the LCD then set that figure in Simplify3D specific to the “material” or hotend. Just a matter of selecting the hotend, then adjusting the extrusion multiplier for the hotend, then slicing as usual. Once done, make sure you set the LCDs extrusion multiplier back to zero.
I notice you’ve still got those nasty gradients on the bottom side of the wheel. You haven’t edited the model to make this more printable? What did you end up doing to get it to work? Smaller nozzle size?
DanMarch 18, 2020 at 10:42 pm #1477
I didn’t edit the model, I did reduce the layer height from .25 > .2 as well as add a lot more supports. It’s still not great but it is much better.March 26, 2020 at 3:44 am #1478 1st test after getting UBL set up, still not great…or is this what is expected?
I went with K1.175, the 4th line from the bottom.March 26, 2020 at 4:29 am #1479
I’d have said 1mm I have likely a shorter bowden than you (700mm) mine is set to .9 . This is enough to all but eliminate ooze.March 26, 2020 at 3:19 pm #1480 The higher the K value the more correction?
I would add a line to the start script in S3D like this?March 26, 2020 at 4:20 pm #1481
with M900 K1.1 I get this
not a lot of stringing but a lot of distortion on the pillars. Should I up the K value?March 26, 2020 at 8:47 pm #1482
Still a lot of stringing. Yes increase the K factor slowly until stringing gone. This can be done during printing so you can see the changes in string while printing. Just execute M900 Kxx while printing from the rep host. Maybe a good idea too to use a single hotend profile instead of your dual profile, just in case the mixing code is toying with things. Also when done with your test print, please copy and send a log of your gcode so I can see what the lin advance is doing .March 27, 2020 at 1:53 pm #1483 I’ve already printed a couple of tests, I will try your suggestion. Here are the results
[attachment=0]string1.2.jpg [/attachment]March 27, 2020 at 2:05 pm #1484 I also did a benchy print with K1.1
and one with no lin adv but with 5mm retraction and .2mm coast
the overall print quality is better on the print with no lin adv but had those nasty defectsMarch 27, 2020 at 3:20 pm #1485
here is the test starting at k0.8-k1.35 .05 steps changing at every 10% of the print
terminal log is attached
It looks as if I should be starting at a lower k value as .8 seems to have the least distortion on the pillars, hard to tell with the stringing thoughMarch 27, 2020 at 8:53 pm #1486
did a couple more tests, not a big difference between them.
1st is from K1.1-0.6 bottom to top
2nd K1.1-1.55 bottom to top
[attachment=1]STRING1.1-1.55.jpg [/attachment]March 27, 2020 at 11:04 pm #1487 This is where I admit to being a knuckle head…and submit that my ignorance will serve to further others on this board to learn from my mistakes!
The stringing was bothering me because no matter what changes I made it continued…wait what temp am I extruding at? 210c for PLA, others have printed at that temp…let’s try dropping that to 190c…
printed at 190 and K values of 0.8-1.25
Looks pretty good! Is there a reason not to print PLA @ 190c?
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