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I have been trying to print a 450x100x450 print for a week now and have gone through 3 rolls of PLA. Every attempt has failed for various reasons. First was just bad slicer settings, the next 3 were heater issues. I went through and rewired the whole printer getting rid of any unnecessary connectors, that is motors, thermistors and heaters now have a single run of wire to the board connector. I’ve had problems with this in the past with this printer. After rewiring it looked like the mosfet for HE0 failed, but failed slowly…I would test on smaller prints and think the issue was fixed then fire off another print and 14 hrs into the print it would halt on a heater runaway error. Attempt 5 I switched to HE1 and it looked good and again made it 14 hrs in and the print just stopped, no error, heaters were still running and according to octoprint the print was still running but the printer was not moving or extruding. Sometimes I feel like this printer is mocking me or I’m playing a game of whack a mole. I’m starting a new print now to see if the print will just stop randomly again with no error…if anyone has anything to add, advice, something to look for I’m all ears.
P.S. there’s more to the story of tracking down the heater errors if you’re interested.
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Sounds like a heater cartridge is dead or dying. They have a finite life and need to be replaced every so often. Search Amazon for V6 heater cartridge. I’d go 12v 40w or higher. Keep a few on hand. This isn’t an uncommon issue (with all 3D printers).
The ceramic filling in the heater cartridge cracks. This allows the coil in the cartridge to corrode and leads to slow heating, inability to maintain temperature and if you persevere long enough, complete heater cartridge failure.
This problem is usually preceded by slow heat up time.
Other things you can check:
Part Fan: is it possible the part fan is set too high, cooling the hotend?You may get a bit more life by doing a PID auto tune : M303 E0 S200 C8 (takes about 10mins to complete).
I usually run that command with the Part cooling fans on. If the heater error occurs during that command, again, just replace the heater cartridge.Dan
the list of things done:
PID tuned
rewired printer
tested thermistor
tested/swapped out heater cartridges (new cartridge performed same as old cartridge so swapped back)
tested output of HE0, started @ 12v until hit target temp of 230 then dropped to 219 back up to 222 then temp
and voltage dropped until printer halted but HE0 led remained lit as if power was still being applied.
changed heater cartridge to HE1 and the heater faults have stopped
PID tuned again
printer failed with no error as stated in my 1st post, all motors stopped…at about the same spot as the previous failures ¯\_(ツ)_/¯I started a print on 11/11 and it actually finished! You were right on the part fan, at full speed the heater was struggling to maintain 230. I lowered the temp to 225 and reduced the fan speed to 75% and got a successful print. I do have another question about the filament sensors. They don’t seem to work. If both sensors have filament and one triggers nothing happens, the printer happily keeps printing. If I have one sensor triggered and one not at the start of a print the printer will not home correctly and fails. the only way I’ve gotten them to work is to have both filament sensors untriggered at the start and then have them both triggered when the filament runs out…not very useful. Hopefully I have something configured wrong. I have the sensors wired up as instructed in the Beast V2 manual and I’ll attach my config files.
P.S. looks like I can’t upload the config files :-/
and more
Can you all take a look here https://github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-RUMBA32/issues/26. I’m still having heater issues and it’s all explained there. Maybe you have some input into possible solutions.
Hi PS.
With your filament sensors, they’re very easy to test. Do one at as time, tigger the sensor, now run M119. What feedback do you get? Now un trigger the sensor, M119 what feedback? Sounds like they may need inverting.
In terms of your heater issues. Did you try replacing your heater cartridge? Id believe a faulty Mosfet if I’d seen one before.
Sorry I didnt get your previous messages. Our email notification system has been down, meaning your posts we’re unread. Going through them now.
DanI have swapped out heater cartridges, that doesn’t seem to be the problem. If you take a look at the posts on github, https://github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-RUMBA32/issues/26, it will explain more. It looks like it’s a PID setting or board hardware problem.
Perhaps something has happened to your PID temperature tables?
Perhaps try reflashing firmware? There are no known issues with the temperature tables in the default firmware.
I changed the motherboard to a BTT GTR board for other reasons than above and still had the same issues…go figure 🙂 I disabled thermal runaway protection and M600 ran as expected. I used a stopwatch to measure the time it took the HE to get to temp and it was 80 sec. I increased both #define WATCH_TEMP_PERIOD and #define THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD 20 to 80 then re-enabled thermal runaway protection and that seemed to fix the issue. Is it ok/safe to increase these times to that level?
Well yes it’s safe, just not “as” safe. 80second thermal protection is quite long in my experience. I’ve never needed to increase this unless :
I live in a very cold environment
I have a part fan (or other fan) running blowing cold air on the heaterblock
I have a dead or dying heater cartridge
I have a dead or dying thermistorHave you considered adding a silicone sock to your hotend?
This all seems a bit odd but
silicone sock…yes
new E3D cartridge…yes
new thermistor…yes
part fan…off during M600 heat up, does drop the temp a bit when 1st on but the heater compensates
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