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Calibration/Tuning instructions

Forums The Beast V1, V2 and Elevator 3D Printer Support Calibration/Tuning instructions

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Viewing 9 posts - 16 through 24 (of 24 total)
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  • #1295
    phongshader
    Participant

    one more
    [attachment=0]IMG_1095.jpg[/attachment]

    #1296
    dan
    Participant

    Looks like a model issue, not a specifically a slicer or printer issue. Straight lines get formed between infill lines regardless of what the slicer says – filament is stretched between two points and takes the shortest path creating straight lines. I’d be reducing the layer height and increasing or changing the infill type. Feel free to send the model file and ill print one perfectly and send you my settings.

    Also, worth checking that the X axis is perpendicular to the Y axis, if not, loosen the grub screws on the GT2 Pulleys on either the left or right side of the Y transfer rod and pull the X carriage square before re tightening.

    #1297
    dan
    Participant

    Can that, just saw your second message. Check X axis perpendicular and also check for tight belts, grub screws on GT2 pulleys. Also check your hotend has zero slop. Should be nice a tight. When you wiggle the nozzle, the rest of the hotend should stay nice and snug, locking the X and Y axis, when you pull gently on the nozzle, the hotend assembly should flex, but upon releasing with your finger should snap right back to the exact position is was before.

    Should be nothing that will make a brim not round unless the model isnt – meaning almost certainly slop somewhere.

    With this sort of issue, you may find a test cube more beneficial to test with that your current model. As its much easier to use to reference issues in either the X or Y axis. Also printing a hollow test cylinder will confirm if you your X isn’t perpendicular to Y.

    Print still looks very sloppy by the way. Im sure we can do much much better.

    Agin feel free to send your model stl file and gcode for me to test.

    #1298
    phongshader
    Participant

    Dan, I emailed you the gcode and the stl file

    #1299
    phongshader
    Participant

    This is an aside but still relevant, have you had success printing TPU filament?

    #1300
    dan
    Participant

    Only with small objects and not with the Multimaterial hotend. I’d be interested to see how it goes with the multi hotend given the hotends internal construction. The high tolerance tube should work well for this filament, but with a multi material hotend? Hmm . If you’ve got some, perhaps best to leave that experiment for after your printer is tuned right. From those pictures there’s still some work to do so. I’ll have a play with your gcode and stl when I get to the office in a few hours.

    In the mean time. How’d you go? Find any slop? Loose hotend, belts, wheels? X axis not perpendicular to y?

    #1301
    dan
    Participant

    OK, so having looked at your model. You need a much smaller nozzle – .25mm or similar or you need to do some work on your model. With a .4mm nozzle, the gradients of the curve of the tyre wall are too gradual. The printer moves up and out too far each layer, leaving next to nothing underneath for the new layer to stick to. This results in filament being drawn between points instead of clinging to the previous layer.

    You can of course print finer wall widths and layer heights, even with a .4mm nozzle, however when doing so, the nozzle is never properly primed and accuracy issues will occur.

    Alternatively, flattening off some of those nasty gradients in your tyre walls will mean each layer has sufficient surface underneath it to complete the print well.

    #1302
    phongshader
    Participant

    I thought I replied to this this morning…I haven’t had a chance to look at the printer to check out the hot end but I’ve had it off a few times clearing clogs so I’m fairly sure that it’s not loose. The belts on the other hand may be loose. How would I check the squareness of the x axis other than eyeballing it?

    #1303
    dan
    Participant

    with a “square” against the right acrylic carriage mount and the x axis.

    As mentioned in my previous post. Your issue is your model gradients combined with nozzle size, supports and layer height. You’ll need quite a bit of tweaking to get that model printing well without modifying the top and bottom curved surfaces of the tyre wall.

    https://www.google.com.au/search?q=set+square&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-au&client=safari

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